Using Purple/Pink Shot Taffeta

I've been able to create some stunning shadowfold results using a relatively cheap ($10 per meter) purple/pink shot taffeta.  This fabric changes tone with light and angle of display.  As such when shapes are twisted at an angle they adopt a slightly different tone, standing out against the background as shown below. 

  

Pinwheel shadowfold design 

Pinwheel shadowfold design
Photo taken on angle

The structure of this fabric gives stunning three dimensional results as is illustrated to the left.

The bottom picture shows how even the underside of a shadowfold design can be a work of art in itself with this highly reflective fabric.  

One of the down sides however using this fabric great care must be taken when pressing with an iron, it does have a tendency to melt if a setting anything higher than synthetic is used.  

Underside of Star of David
design

There are many other shot taffeta or shot silk colour combinations that provide equally beautiful results due to their reflective and duo toned nature.

(Designs from Rutzky, J. and Palmer, C. (2011). Shadowfolds: Suprisingly Easy-to-Make Geometric Designs in Fabric. New York. Kodansha America.) 

Shadowfolds - Step by Step.

I have previously reviewed "Shadowfolds: Surprisingly Easy-to-Make Geometric Designs in Fabric", which was incidentally my Christmas present to myself!  Since reading the book I have become fascinated with the techniques created by the authors.  In order to show others just how surprisingly simple this method is, here is a step by step guide to producing some amazing fabric manipulation.  In this example I use an aquamarine shot silk - a highly suitable medium for non-translucent results.  It is highly woven, holds pleats effectively when pressed and still retains body and shape for a three dimensional effect.

The first step is to scan or download the and print out the desired pattern. Due to the method used, the pattern will often be significantly larger than the finished product and as such the pattern will typically be larger than one A4 sheet of paper depending on the desired finished size. Once the paper patterns are aligned and taped, holes are punched at the designated dots and the pattern is taped to the fabric.  You will a piece of fabric around two and a half times the size of the desired result. 

The dots are marked onto the fabric (shown above left) using a fabric pencil.  Marks should be kept small yet visible.  The dots are then connected (shown above right) into the appropriate geometric shapes.  Using a fine needle and appropriately coloured thread sew the dots of each shape together, picking up a 3-4 threads of the fabric at each point, making an overhand knot and drawing the thread tight, securing the knot.

Shown above on the left is the face side of the fabric after all dots are connected.  The under side of the fabric is shown above.  After the pleats and twists are flattened the result is shown below.

This was my very first attempt at the pin wheel design created by Rutzky and Palmer.  I made the mistake of pinning the shapes and pressing flat which left small pin holes in the finished result.  I would recommend instead only pinning and pressing the edges of the fabric.

For anyone else with a bit of spare time and a love of geometry I highly recommend getting the book giving this a go.  I plan on using this piece as a panel for yet another cushion cover.

Rutzky, J. and Palmer, C. (2011). Shadowfolds: Suprisingly Easy-to-Make Geometric Designs in Fabric. New York. Kodansha America.

Shadowfolds: Suprisingly Easy-to-Make Geometric Designs in Fabric. By Jeffrey Rutzky and Chris K. Palmer.

For anyone interested in fabric manipulation or looking for inspiration for new projects, this book is a must read.  Pioneered by Chris Palmer, this technique involves folding cloth in  geometric patterns inspired by historical architecture traditional cultural decoration.  Results alter depending on the type of fabric used.  Thin, light-coloured fabric allows light to shine through the pleats at varying levels, giving the technique its name.  This book features the history of the technique's development, illustrated with stunning photography of it's many applications.

I have thoroughly enjoyed experimenting with many of the projects featured in the book and have even begun to create my own designs.  I would recommend this book to anyone looking for a new creative outlet.  The process is surprisingly simple and the results are stunning.

You can find this book at Amazon here.

Rutzky, J. and Palmer, C. (2011). Shadowfolds: Suprisingly Easy-to-Make Geometric Designs in Fabric. New York. Kodansha America.